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Baccala Livornese, an Italian dish made with salt cod and potatoes simmered in an aromatic tomato sauce, is a traditional Italian Christmas Eve recipe made for the Feast of the Seven Fishes.
Baccala is one of those non-negotiable pillars that most Italian Americans will include in some form on their annual Christmas Eve (La Vigilia di Natale) Feast of the Seven Fishes menu. (It’s also very popular during Fridays in Lent.)
The signature aroma of this dried fish being prepared for Christmas Eve by my Grandmom Susie remains a vivid memory from my childhood.
And while there are lots of other ways to incorporate salt cod into the annual feast, like crispy baccala fritters or light and fresh baccala salad, this baccala in tomato sauce seems to be the one that we just have to make every year.
Baccala Origins and Characteristics
Although colloquially the word “baccala” can mean a fool/idiot or a slap, it’s technically cod fish that’s been deboned and skinned, then cured, or preserved, with salt and dried. However, in the Italian region of Venice, baccala actually refers to unsalted, dried whole cod, which is known as stoccafisso everywhere else in Italy. (See Frequently Asked Questions below for more on this.)
Regardless, it has a long history as a preserved food and dates back centuries when modern refrigeration was non-existent. Back then, salted fish was the primary method for preserving and transporting fish. The merchants of Northern Europe and Scandinavia introduced salt cod to both the port cities of Livorno in Tuscany on the west coast (where this recipe originates) and Venice on the east, from where it then spread to other parts of Italy and became quite popular. It was inexpensive which meant that it was both accessible to the poor and those in inland towns that did not have access to fresh fish.
These days, baccala is enjoyed all over the world, but is especially popular in Italy, Spain and Portugal, as well as amongst Italian Americans. It tends to have a stronger and more savory taste and is denser and more solid than fresh cod. (Salting enhances fresh cod’s flavor and makes it firmer in texture.)
Baccala Livornese
Since baccala is preserved/dried with salt, it needs to be soaked in water for a couple days (with several water changes) to be both desalted and reconstituted before cooking. So, this and all baccala recipes, though easy, require some planning and foresight.
Baccala Livornese hails from the coastal port town of Livorno in Tuscany, a central Italian region. Once the cod has been rehydrated and desalted, it’s then combined with potatoes in a tomato sauce flavored with garlic, celery, anchovy, parsley and dry white wine. Some recipes omit the potatoes and others call for rosemary instead of parsley, but the general flavor profile and cooking technique is always the same.
I love to sprinkle some black olives into this stewed baccala toward the end of cooking, which is a nod to my southern Italian roots for sure. But this step is optional.
Be sure to serve this baccala and potatoes with some crusty pane di casa on the side to fare la scarpetta and sop up all the sauce on the bottom of your dish! Mangia bene!
Be sure to round out your Christmas Eve menu with some classic Italian-inspired antipasti and sides like sautéed broccoli rabe, baked artichoke hearts, roasted peppers, Sicilian caponata, marinated mushrooms or roasted zucchini alla scapece. And, don’t forget to make some olio santo chili oil as well to pass around the table.
Main Ingredient Notes
To make this Italian baccala with potatoes recipe, we’ll need:
- Baccala (salted cod): The heart of the recipe! Be sure to buy boneless and skinless salt cod and allow yourself a few days to soak it for rehydrating and desalting. Look for salted cod that’s clean and white with a firm texture and avoid any pieces that appear overly dry or are a bit yellow. If possible, select thick pieces for this dish.
- Potatoes: Russet or Yukon Gold potatoes are best here as they hold their shape well. Peel and cut them into 1” cubes, then par-cook them in boiling water. They’ll finish cooking in the flavorful tomato sauce along with the salt cod and absorb all the delicious flavors.
- Celery, Garlic, Parsley: Important aromatics that make up the flavor base for this baccala in tomato sauce. Plus, they add freshness, texture and herby brightness. If using dried herbs, add them to the pan along with the tomatoes.
- Anchovy: Adds loads of umami (savoriness). You can use either anchovy filets or anchovy paste.
- Wine: Use a dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio, to add flavor and acidity to the overall dish. If you’d rather cook without wine, you can just leave it out.
- Tomatoes: The baccala Livornese base. Use passata, crushed, diced or whole tomatoes that you’ve hand-crushed.
- Black Olives (optional): Black, oil-cured olives add brininess, salt and lots of flavor.
How to Make Baccala Livornese
- Rehydrate and Desalt the Baccala: First, rinse the baccala well under running water to remove any surface salt. Then, soak it for 2 to 3 days to rehydrate it and pull most of the salt out of it. Immerse the baccala in cold water and refrigerate it, changing the water at least twice daily.
- Once the baccala has finished soaking, rinse it under cold running water and cut it down into large chunks. Then prep and gather the remaining salad ingredients.
- Par-cook the potatoes about 2/3 way in salted boiling water, then drain. Next, cook the celery, parsley, garlic, anchovy and crushed red pepper in olive oil for about 5 minutes or until the vegetables begin to soften, stirring a few times.
- PRO-TIP: Use a deep pan, braiser or Dutch oven that’s deep enough to hold both the salt cod and the potatoes without being too crowded.
- Then, pour the wine in and deglaze the pan, scraping up any brown bits.
- Next, add the tomatoes and black pepper and stir.
- Carefully add the drained, par-cooked potatoes and stir, then the pieces of salt cod, nestling them in the sauce.
- Partially cover and simmer the baccala in tomato sauce for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender and the fish flakes easily.
- PRO-TIP: Try not to overcook the mixture, as overcooked fish will fall apart easily.
- If you’re including the olives, sprinkle them in about 5 minutes before the stew is finished cooking. Taste test the sauce and adjust seasoning. Sprinkle the baccala with potatoes with parsley and then it’s ready to serve. Enjoy!
More Recipes for the Feast of the Seven Fishes
If you like Baccala Livornese, check out these other Italian-inspired seafood recipes:
- Stuffed Calamari in Tomato Sauce
- Scungilli Fra Diavolo
- Crispy Baked Calamari
- Crispy Pan Fried Smelts
- Scungilli (Conch) Salad
- Italian Fried Shrimp
- Shrimp Oreganata in White Wine Lemon Butter
- Baked Clams Oreganata
- Clams Posillipo in Red Sauce (Zuppa di Vongole))
- Linguine with Clams in a Red Sauce
- Mussels Marinara in Red Sauce (Zuppa di Mussels)
- Spaghetti and Crabs
- Shrimp Scampi Pasta with Arugula
- Spicy Garlic Shrimp
Frequently Asked Questions
Dried, salted cod is actually not too hard to come by. I found some in the refrigerated case of the seafood department at my local grocery store. But many fishmongers and markets will sell it shelf-stable at room temperature. As it gets closer to Christmas Eve (when demand for it is high), I sometimes see it being sold pre-soaked! Most Italian or Portuguese specialty markets will carry it year-round. I even found it available on Amazon!
Just be sure that it is boneless and skinless when you purchase it.
Look for salted cod that’s clean and white with a firm texture. Avoid any pieces that appear excessively dry or thin or are a bit yellow, which generally indicates rancidity. Ideally, the fish should have some flexibility. Select the thickest pieces possible since it’ll be served in large pieces, unlike baccala salad and baccala fritters where the fish is flaked.
Soak the salt cod in water in the refrigerator for at least 48 hours or up to 3 days, changing the water a minimum of twice daily. Once the baccala has soaked for 2 days, check if it is sufficiently desalted by taste-testing a bit of the soaking water. If it seems really salty, change the water again and let it soak a bit more. Keep in mind that you can always add salt to the recipe later, but you cannot fix salty cod once it has been mixed with other ingredients. Be patient and allow yourself enough time for this soaking process.
You can also check the salt cod by pinching a bit of its flesh see if it’s softened. Also, the soaking water should be more-or-less clear once the baccala has soaked enough.
No, they’re different and there’s often confusion between stockfish and salted cod, although they’re often used interchangeably in recipes. (You can use stockfish in this baccala in tomato sauce recipe, fyi.)
Both are made with cod from Norway, generally. (Stockfish can also be made with haddock or hake.) And both were primary methods for preserving and transporting fish due to the absence of modern technology, such as refrigeration, back in the day. The main difference between these two dried fish is in the preservation and processing method used to extend their storage life.
Stoccafisso is dried without salt on vast, open-air wooden racks until it is sufficiently preserved (usually for four months). It is dry and hard and usually sold as a whole fish containing bones, skin and cartilage. Check out my stoccafisso in tomato sauce recipe.
Baccalà, on the other hand, is codfish that’s been cured by dry-salting it in salted barrels for much less time. Baccalà remains relatively moist and tender and usually sold cut into sections rather than a whole fish. It is skinless, boneless and white and, therefore, more visually appealing. But, as there are no added ingredients in the processing of stoccafisso, it actually has a more delicate flavor than baccalà.
Both need to be soaked before cooking, changing the water several times–stockfish for anywhere from 7-14 days and baccalà for up to 2 days. Baccalà generally takes longer to cook than stoccafisso but it will depend on the thickness of the fish.
TOP TIPS FOR BACCALA LIVORNESE
- Baccala: Be sure to buy boneless and skinless salt cod and allow yourself a few days to soak it for rehydrating and desalting. Look for salted cod that’s clean and white with a firm texture and avoid any pieces that appear overly dry or are a bit yellow, which generally means progressing rancidity. And, if given the option, select the thickest pieces possible since the fish will be served in large pieces.
- Make in Advance: Since Baccala Livornese is basically a stew, it’ll reheat well and can be made one day in advance of serving. This is especially useful if you’re serving it along with lots of other dishes, as on Christmas Eve’s Feast of the Seven Fishes.
- Recipe Variations: If you’d like to make a more baccala napolitana or baccala alla ghiotta (Sicilian) version of this dish, be sure to include the optional black olives and possibly even green olives, capers and red onions. Fresh cherry tomatoes can also be used in place of canned tomatoes for a looser, more liquidity stew. In this case, you may need to add some vegetable broth. For a lighter dish, omit the potatoes and enjoy it on its own. You can also serve it with a side of pasta tossed in the sauce.
- Serving Suggestions: Enjoy Baccala Livornese an entrée paired with a light green salad. Or, in a smaller portion, this can be one of many fish/seafood dishes in a large buffet. (This is usually the case on Christmas Eve’s Feast of the Seven Fishes.) I love serving this alongside some sautéed escarole or broccoli rabe.
- Leftovers: Hold leftovers in an airtight container for up to 5 days. Reheat them in a skillet over medium low heat until heated through. Add a little water if the mixture has become dry.
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Baccala Livornese ~ Salt Cod in Tomato Sauce with Potatoes)
Equipment
- Dutch oven or braiser/deep pan
Ingredients
- 2 pounds skinless and boneless baccala/dried salt cod fish (2 pounds dried weight)
- 1½ pounds Russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1” cubes (hold prepped potatoes in a bowl of cold water until ready to cook)
- Salt for boiling potatoes
- 2-3 Tbsp olive oil
- ½ cup finely chopped celery (about 2 large stalks)
- ½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley, divided
- ⅓ cup finely chopped garlic
- 6 anchovy filets or 3 tsp anchovy paste
- ¼ tsp crushed red pepper
- 6 Tbsp dry white wine such as Pinot Grigio
- 1 (28-ounces) can tomatoes + ½ can water (passata, crushed, diced or whole crushed by hand)
- Pinch black pepper
- ½ cup chopped, pitted black, oil-cured olives (optional)
- Salt, as needed
Instructions
- REHYDRATE & DESALT THE BACCALA: First, rinse the baccala well under running water to remove any surface salt. Then, soak it for 2 to 3 days to rehydrate it and pull most of the salt out of it. Immerse the baccala (can be cut down into smaller pieces) in a large bowlful of cold water to cover by a couple inches, cover and place it in the refrigerator. Ideally, prop it up on something, like a small, upside-down bowl, in the soaking container so the salt, as it dissolves off the fish, sinks to the bottom, and doesn’t remain in contact with the fish. Change the water at least twice daily.2 pounds skinless and boneless baccala/dried salt cod fish
- Once the baccala has soaked for 2 days or so, check if it is sufficiently desalted by taste-testing a bit of the soaking water. If it seems really salty, change the water again and let it soak a bit more. Also, the soaking water should be more-or-less clear once the baccala has soaked enough.Keep in mind that you can always add salt to the recipe later, but you cannot fix salty cod once it has been mixed with other ingredients. Be patient and allow yourself enough time for this soaking process.
- Once the baccala has finished soaking, rinse it under cold running water, cut it down into large pieces and pat it dry with a paper towel. Then prep and gather the remaining salad ingredients.(Please see the section above in the blog post forStep-By-Step instructions with photos.)
- COOK THE POTATOES: Place the prepped potatoes in a pot then cover them with cold water by a couple inches. Bring water to a boil, add about 1 Tbsp salt and boil the potatoes until they are about 2/3 cooked (about 10 minutes), then drain them and set them aside. (The potatoes will finish cooking in the tomato sauce along with the baccala, fyi.)1½ pounds Russet or Yukon Gold potatoes,, Salt for boiling potatoes
- COOK THE BACCALA STEW: Pour the olive oil into a deep pan, braiser or Dutch oven that’s large and deep enough to hold all the baccala and potatoes without being crowded. Heat over medium, then add the celery, half the parsley, garlic, anchovy and crushed red pepper. Cook for about 5 minutes until the vegetables begin to soften, stirring a few times. (You can cover the pot to speed this process up a bit if you want.)2-3 Tbsp olive oil, ½ cup finely chopped celery, ½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley,, ⅓ cup finely chopped garlic, 6 anchovy filets or 3 tsp anchovy paste, ¼ tsp crushed red pepper
- Then, pour the wine in and deglaze the pan, scraping up any brown bits.6 Tbsp dry white wine
- Next, add the tomatoes and water and black pepper and stir.1 (28-ounces) can tomatoes + ½ can water, Pinch black pepper
- Carefully add the drained, par-cooked potatoes and stir, then the pieces of salt cod, nestling them in the sauce. Partially cover and cook for about 15minutes, adjusting the temperature to keep the stew at a simmer. Lightly stir the mixture a few times to make sure it’s not sticking to the bottom of the pan. Cook until the potatoes are tender and the baccala flakes easily. Try not to overcook the mixture, as overcooked fish will fall apart easily.
- If you’re including the olives, sprinkle them in about 5 minutes before the baccala in tomato sauce is finished cooking.½ cup chopped, pitted black, oil-cured olives
- Taste test the sauce to see if it needs any salt. It may not need any due to the salt content of the baccala, anchovies and olives (if including).Then, sprinkle the remaining chopped parsley over the baccala with potatoes and it’s ready to serve. Buon Appetito!
Notes
- Total recipe time does not include soaking time, fyi.
- The weight of the salt cod in the ingredient list is the dried weight before rehydrating, fyi.
- Be sure to buy boneless and skinless salt cod and allow yourself a few days to soak it for rehydrating and desalting. Look for salted cod that’s clean and white with a firm texture and avoid any pieces that appear overly dry or are a bit yellow, which generally indicates rancidity. Also, if given the option, select the thickest pieces possible since the fish will be served in large pieces.
- The olives, while not traditional in baccala alla Livornese, were included as an option. I really do love adding them!
- Use a deep pan, braiser or Dutch oven that’s deep enough to hold both the salt cod and the potatoes without being too crowded.
- Since this is basically a stew, it will reheat well and can be made one day in advance of serving. This is especially useful if you’re serving it along with lots of other dishes, as on Christmas Eve’s Feast of the Seven Fishes.
- Baccala Livornese leftovers can be held in an airtight container for up to 5 days. Reheat them in a skillet over medium low heat until heated through. Add a little water if the mixture has become dry.
