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Stoccafisso, a.k.a., stocco or stockfish, is a very traditional recipe made on Christmas Eve (La Vigilia di Natale) in the homes of many Italian Americans during their annual Feast of the Seven Fishes dinner. Air-dried Nordic cod is first rehydrated for one to two weeks, then pan fried and added to a savory tomato sauce and baked with olives and capers. Molto delizioso!
Making stoccafisso is a bit of a labor of love and not for the faint of heart. Some say it’s like “turning stone to fish” due to the rock-hard texture of the dried cod fish.
Stoccafisso, which is sometimes called pescestocco in Italian and piscistoccu in Sicilian, is very popular from northern Italy to the south. While not native to the waters surrounding Italy, both preserved stockfish and its salt-cured cousin baccalà was brought to southern Italy from Scandinavia around 1130.
To this day, they’ve remained popular in Italy in addition to being a traditional holiday food for many Italian Americans. Both stoccafisso and baccalà are notably included on Christmas Eve’s big Feast of the Seven Fishes menu and are also enjoyed on days of abstinence during Lent, especially on Good Friday.
Feast of the Seven Fishes by Daniel Paterna
This stoccafisso recipe is from native New Yorker and proud Neapolitan-American (and my good friend) Daniel Paterna. It appears in his book, Feast of the Seven Fishes: A Brooklyn-Italian’s Recipes Celebrating Food and Family, an intense memoir and cookbook that powerfully illustrates the essence of the Italian-American experience: the ways food, family, and community were preserved and changed by the immigrants who brought them to our shores, and the children of those immigrants who keep the flame alive.
Through recipes handed down in his family, stunning photos taken by Daniel himself (an award-winning graphic designer!), and three-generations of memories, soulful, humorous and delicious stories of Italian Americans in Brooklyn’s historic Bensonhurst neighborhood are revealed.
I am a huge fan of Daniel’s book and still tear up a bit every time I pick it up to read a few pages. It is heartfelt, funny and suspenseful, all at the same time. If you’re curious at all, and looking for lots of traditional Italian recipes like this one, I highly recommend that you pick up his book today! Get one for yourself and more for your paesani. It’s truly a treasure in words and pictures.
And, while I could tell you more about this specific stoccafisso recipe, I instead will let Daniel tell you himself in his own words below.
The following excerpt was reprinted with permission from Feast of the Seven Fishes, A Brooklyn Italian’s Recipes Celebrating Food and Family by Daniel Paterna. (2019, Powerhouse Books).
“In most Italian American homes, Vigilia di Natale (Christmas Eve) is the most solemn celebration of the year. Families wait for the midnight birth of the infant Jesus by sitting down at an elaborate meal. Seven different dishes are traditionally prepared, representing the seven sacraments or the seven days of creation. Some families, like mine, have been known to prepare 11 or even 13 dishes.”
“Stoccafisso is codfish that has been air-dried in frigid arctic air. There was a time when these basic food staples, which could be easily stored in any dry place in your house or ship cargo, were the least expensive fish you could buy. The fish would be brought into our house two weeks before Christmas, and preparations would begin.
To us children, the elaborate process of turning petrified fish into tender, white flesh seemed nothing short of miraculous. My mother and grandmother would always use the same porcelain-coated pan to rehydrate the fish. The faucet would be turned on to a mere trickle to . . . soften the stoccafisso.
The slow incessant drip of the fountain would become unbearable–a form of water torture, inspiring my father’s inventiveness. He realized that by tying one end of a string to the faucet and placing the other end in the bowl, he could guide the drops of tap water along the curve of the string. This primitive form of hydrotherapy would go on for two solid weeks, the fish releasing a rich odor as it softened. The pungent smell filled the kitchen and shocked my budding olfactory senses, but the more senior members of the family seemed unaffected. They knew this suffering would lead to pure, nirvanic deliciousness. . . Over the years, that olfactory overload became associated with the luminous arrival of Christmas, electric trains, joyous music, and the communal joy of preparing a feast.”
Reprinted with permission from The Feast of the Seven Fishes by Daniel Paterna.
Whether this is your first, twenty-fifth, or forty-fifth Italian Christmas Eve, I hope you give this traditional stoccafisso recipe a try. It’s worth the effort for a memorable and traditional Feast of the Seven Fishes!
Be sure to round out your menu with some classic Italian-inspired antipasti such as roasted peppers or fried peppers, Sicilian caponata relish, marinated mushrooms, baked artichoke hearts, peperonata with olives and capers or mint and vinegar-infused zucchini alla scapece. And, don’t forget to make some olio santo chili oil as well to pass around the table. Buon Natale!
How to Make Baked Stoccafisso, Old-School Style
The main ingredient needed to make stoccafisso is time and patience. This is by no means a last-minute dish! With 8 to 14 days soaking time, you will need to have a full plan in place to make this delicious recipe.
- Soak the Fish (Two Weeks Before Cooking): The dry cod must be cut by machine by your merchant into 2-3-inch steaks. Hydrate fish in water for 14 days in your refrigerator, changing water every day (twice a day is best). By day 14, your fish will have miraculously turned to flesh.
- PRO-TIP: Be sure to keep the fish refrigerated while soaking.
- After the fish is done soaking and is soft, remove all bones, cartilage and skin and discard. Then, rinse the fish well under cold water.
- Make the Sauce: Add oil to a 10-quart pot over medium flame. After 1 to 2 minutes, add celery and sauté for 5 minutes. Remove and set aside.Add onions and garlic and cook until the onions are translucent, stirring occasionally. Remove and set aside.
- Add blended tomatoes and salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Then lower to a simmer and simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes to 1 hour. After 30 minutes add the sautéed celery, onions and garlic back in, along with the capers, olives and dried oregano, if including. Continue to simmer uncovered while preparing the fish.
- Fry the Fish: Once the stoccafisso is ready and softened, preheat oven to 350°F. Heat the canola oil in a medium-sized pan.
Reprinted with permission from The Feast of the Seven Fishes by Daniel Paterna.
- Meanwhile (while the oil is heating), pat the fish pieces dry with a paper towel. Sprinkle each piece lightly with black pepper, then lightly dredge both sides in flour.
- Once the oil is hot, carefully transfer the flour-dusted pieces of fish to the hot oil. Be careful not to overcrowd the pan, which will slow down frying. Once the fish is light golden brown on both sides, remove and set aside on a wire rack or paper towel to drain excess oil.
- Bake the Stoccafisso: Add enough sauce to cover the bottom of a 4½-quart (10-by-15-inch) casserole pan. Add the fried fish to the pan and ladle more tomato sauce over it, covering the fried fish. While ladling the sauce, try to avoid including the garlic cloves into the casserole pan. They can be discarded at this point.
- Bake uncovered in the oven for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven let set for 15 minutes. Serve warm. Buon Appetito!
Reprinted with permission from The Feast of the Seven Fishes by Daniel Paterna.
What is the Difference Between Stoccafisso (Stockfish) and Bàccala?
There is often confusion between stockfish and salted cod. These fish are often used interchangeably in recipes, though they are different.
Both are made with cod from Norway, generally. (Stockfish can also be made with haddock or hake.) And both were primary methods for preserving and transporting fish due to the absence of modern technology, such as refrigeration, back in the day. The main difference between these two dried fish is in the preservation and processing method used to extend their storage life.
Stoccafisso is dried without salt on vast, open-air wooden racks until it is sufficiently preserved (usually for four months). It is dry and hard and usually sold as a whole fish containing bones, skin and cartilage.
Baccalà, on the other hand, is codfish that’s been cured by dry-salting it in salted barrels for much less time. Baccalà remains relatively moist and tender and usually sold cut into sections rather than a whole fish. It is skinless, boneless and white and, therefore, more visually appealing. But, as there are no added ingredients in the processing of stoccafisso, it actually has a more delicate flavor than baccalà.
Both need to be soaked before cooking, changing the water several times–stockfish for anywhere from 8-14 days and baccalà for 2 days or so. Baccalà generally takes longer to cook than stoccafisso but it will depend on the thickness of the fish.
Frequently Asked Questions
Stoccafisso was once one of the most inexpensive fishes you could buy but has now become an expensive delicacy.
You may need to call around, but an old school Italian fishmonger or specialty shop, like D. Coluccio & Sons in Brooklyn, NY, is your best bet. Portuguese fishmongers and shops are also a possible option. You may also be able to find stockfish online. Believe it or not, I saw several vendors selling stockfish on Etsy.
The dry cod must be cut by machine by your merchant into 2-3-inch steaks. If you’re not able to have your fish vendor cut the rock-hard stoccafisso for you into steaks, do this yourself after soaking, once it is soft. But, you’ll then need a big enough pan to hold an oblong fish! (Back in the day, it used to be out in the bathroom tub!)
Yes, you can make this recipe with salt-cured baccalà if you cannot get your hands on any air-fried stockfish. The soaking process will be less time and the flavor will be slightly different, but it will still be a very delicious and traditional dish perfect for Christmas Eve or anytime.
More Seafood and Fish Recipes for Christmas Eve
Need to round out your Christmas Eve menu for the Feast of the Seven Fishes? Here are some other options:
- Crispy Pan Fried Smelts
- Stuffed Calamari in Tomato Sauce
- Scungilli Marinara with Linguine
- Scungilli Salad
- Spaghetti and Crabs
- Clams Oreganata
- Zuppa di Clams in Red Sauce
- Shrimp Oreganata
- Calamari, Potato & Peas
- Linguine with Clams in Red Sauce
- Shrimp Scampi Pasta
- Spaghetti with Anchovies and Breadcrumbs
- Spicy Garlic Shrimp
- Calamari Ragu Fra Diavolo
- Sautéed Calamari (Not Fried)
- Mussels Marinara in Red Sauce (Zuppa di Mussels)
TOP TIPS FOR STOCCAFISSO
- Start 2 Weeks Out! This Baked Cod is not a last-minute dish! The stoccafisso must be soaked in water (with water changes twice a day) for anywhere from 8-14 days depending on the size of the fish.
- Portioning The Fish: If you’re not able to have your fish vendor cut the rock-hard stoccafisso for you into steaks, do this yourself after soaking, once it is soft. But, you’ll then need a big enough pan to hold an oblong fish! (Back in the day, it used to be out in the bathroom tub!)
- Keep It Refrigerated: Even though Daniel Paterna grew up with stoccafisso being slowly rehydrated at room temperature under cold drips of water, be sure to keep yours in a cold refrigerator during its many days of soaking.
- Capers: There’s no need to rinse the salt off the salted capers since the fish itself doesn’t have any salt (unlike salt cod/baccalà). If all you have are capers in brine, they can be used instead.
- Recipe Substitutions: You can make this recipe with salt-cured baccalà if you cannot get your hands on any air-fried stockfish. The soaking process will be less time and the flavor will be slightly different, but it will still be a very delicious and traditional dish perfect for Christmas Eve or anytime.
- Recipe Variation: If you’d like to make more of a stockfish stew, add about 2 pounds potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks, into the casserole dish along with the fish. Be sure to cook until the potatoes are tender.
- Serving Suggestions: This is a very traditional dish served during the annual Feast of the Seven Fishes celebrated by many Italian Americans on Christmas Eve. As such, it’s paired with several other fish and seafood dishes along with numerous antipasti and more. Stoccafisso is also often enjoyed by many on Good Friday.
- Storage: Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for up to 5 days or freeze them in a freezer container for up to 3 months.
More Great Recipes to Try
I hope that you are enjoying my Italian food blog and all of my Italian recipes and Italian-American recipes!
If you’ve tried this Stoccafisso recipe, please let me know how it went in the comments below. I love hearing from you!
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Stoccafisso ~ Baked (Air Dried) Cod, Old-School Style
Equipment
- Large Casserole Dish (4½-quart; 10”x15”)
Ingredients
For the Sauce:
- ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
- 8-10 stalks celery, sliced 1” on an angle
- 3 Spanish onions, sliced thin
- 5 cloves garlic, cracked (will be removed after sauce is cooked)
- 5 (28-ounce) cans Italian plum tomatoes blended for 4 seconds
- About 2 tsp salt (or to taste at end)
- 5 Tbsp salted capers (no need to rinse the salt off)
- 12 ounces extra-large, black, pitted olives
- 12 ounces green Sicilian pitted olives
- 1 tsp dried oregano (optional)
For the Fish:
- 3 pounds Arctic air-dried cod (a.k.a., stoccafisso, stocco or stockfish)
- 1 cup neutral oil such as canola oil
- ¼ tsp ground black pepper
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
Instructions
- NOTE: This recipe and all photos were reprinted with permission from Feast of the SevenFishes, A Brooklyn Italian’s Recipes Celebrating Food and Family by Daniel Paterna.(2019, Powerhouse Books).
Soak the Fish (Two Weeks Before Cooking):
- The dry cod must be cut by machine by your merchant into 2-3-inch steaks. Hydrate fish in water for 14 days in your refrigerator, changing water every day (twice a day is best). By day 14, your fish will have miraculously turned to flesh. (It may be ready in less time and depends on the actual size of the fish.)3 pounds Arctic air-dried cod
- After the fish is done soaking and is soft, remove all bones, cartilage and skin and discard. Then, rinse the fish well under cold water.
Make the Sauce:
- To make the sauce, add the oil to a 10-quart pot over medium flame. After 1 to 2 minutes, add celery and sauté for 5 minutes. Remove and set aside.½ cup extra virgin olive oil, 8-10 stalks celery,
- Add onions and garlic and cook until the onions are translucent, stirring occasionally. Remove and set aside.3 Spanish onions,, 5 cloves garlic,
- Add blended tomatoes and salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Then lower to a simmer and simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes to 1 hour.5 (28-ounce) cans Italian plum tomatoes, About 2 tsp salt
- After 30 minutes add the sautéed celery, onions and garlic back in, along with the capers, olives and dried oregano, if including. Continue to simmer uncovered while preparing the fish.5 Tbsp salted capers, 12 ounces extra-large, black, pitted olives, 12 ounces green Sicilian pitted olives, 1 tsp dried oregano
Fry the Fish:
- Once the stoccafisso is ready and softened and you are ready to cook it, preheat oven to 350°F. Heat the canola oil in a medium-sized pan.1 cup neutral oil
- Meanwhile (while the oil is heating), pat the fish pieces dry with a paper towel. Sprinkle each piece lightly with black pepper, then lightly dredge both sides in flour.¼ tsp ground black pepper, 1 cup all-purpose flour
- Once the oil is hot, carefully transfer the flour-dusted pieces of fish to the hot oil. Be careful not to overcrowd the pan, which will slow down frying. Once the fish is light golden brown on both sides, remove and set aside on a wire rack or paper towel to drain excess oil.
Bake the Stoccafisso:
- Add enough sauce to cover the bottom of a 4½-quart (10-by-15-inch) casserole pan. Add the fried fish to the pan and ladle more tomato sauce over it, covering the fried fish. While ladling the sauce, try to avoid including the garlic cloves into the casserole pan. They can be discarded at this point.
- Bake uncovered in the oven for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven let set for 15 minutes. Serve warm. Buon Appetito!
Notes
- Start 2 Weeks Out! This is not a last-minute dish! The stoccafisso must be soaked in water (with water changes twice a day) for anywhere from 8-14 days depending on the size of the fish.
- If you’re not able to have your fish vendor cut the rock-hard stoccafisso for you into steaks, do this yourself after soaking, once it is soft. But, you’ll then need a big enough pan to hold an oblong fish! (Back in the day, it used to be out in the bathroom tub!)
- Keep It Refrigerated: Even though Daniel Paterna grew up with stoccafisso being slowly rehydrated at room temperature under cold drips of water, be sure to keep yours in a cold refrigerator during its many days of soaking.
- Capers: There’s no need to rinse the salt off the salted capers since the fish itself doesn’t have any salt (unlike salt cod/baccalà). If all you have are capers in brine, they can be used instead.
- Recipe Substitutions: You can make this recipe with salt-cured baccalà if you cannot get your hands on any air-fried stockfish. The soaking process will be less time and the flavor will be slightly different, but it will still be a very delicious and traditional dish perfect for Christmas Eve or anytime.
- Recipe Variation: If you’d like to make this dish more stew-like, add about 2 pounds potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks, into the casserole dish along with the fish. Be sure to cook until the potatoes are tender.
- You may have up to a quart of sauce extra, depending on how the fish hydrated. If so, enjoy it with some pasta in a couple days! You can also refrigerate it in an air-tight container for up to 5 days or freeze it for up to 3 months.
- Serving Suggestions: This is a very traditional dish served during the annual Feast of the Seven Fishes celebrated by many Italian Americans on Christmas Eve. As such, it’s paired with several other fish and seafood dishes along with numerous antipasti and more. Stoccafisso is also often enjoyed by many on Good Friday.
- Storage: Refrigerate stoccafisso leftovers in an airtight container for up to 5 days or freeze them in a freezer container for up to 3 months. Reheat in a small pan over medium-low until heated through.
